Casa Turrent (San Andres) Adventure (Nov. 3-8, 2024)
Día de los Muertos
«Adonde fueres, haz lo que vieres !» {Wherever you go, do whatever you see.} With a little license granted for translation, this popular Mexican saying fits closely with my philosophy. In late October, early November of 2024 I had the once in a lifetime opportunity to visit Mexico City, Vera Cruz, and the San Andres Valley. This opportunity was afforded to me by Chris Hansen (Burlington-on-Whyte Tobacconist), Paul Graham (Brigham Enterprises), and Alejandro Turrent (Casa Turrent Cigars). For all their support and facilitation, I am truly grateful.
Mexico City is a sprawling metropolis of over 24 million souls. It is a palette of colour, sound, aromas, culinary delights, and textures! It was with great relish that I landed in this world and especially so because it was the beginning of Día de los Muertos (The Day of the Dead) which, in Mexico, is a joyous celebration, not sombre as one might think. While there are elements of the macabre and grotesque, these are all treated with a light and impish touch. I toured the city extensively (especially the city center) and revelled in the welcoming nature of the Mexican people. If there is one piece of advice I would give to travellers, it’s this – don’t forego a visit to Mexico City when considering a holiday south of the border. There is more to Mexico than resort cities and sun-drenched beaches.
One of the highlights of my visit to Mexico City was meeting up with Stewart and Richard (friends of Burlington’s) and Paul (Brigham Enterprises) and spending time with them at the Casa Turrent Lounge in the heart of the Polanco District. We were treated royally at Casa Turrent and thoroughly enjoyed the peaceful, classy atmosphere of Alejandro’s cigar emporium. This is a must-stop in Mexico City should you ever go there.
On Nov. 3 our group arrived in Veracruz, the largest port city on the Gulf of Mexico. Here we met our hosts from Casa Turrent and enjoyed a wonderful ‘welcome’ meal, followed by Turrent cigars on the hotel deck. We were put up in the Gran Fiesta Americana, a truly beautiful hotel directly on the Gulf.
After breakfast at La Parroquia (a traditional Mexican breakfast restaurant), our air-conditioned van whisked us on our way to the San Andres Valley (the home of everything Casa Turrent – the nurseries, tobacco fields, curing barns, and of course the factory) where so much cigar magic happens!
Our first stop was in Tlacotalpan – a town granted ‘Pueblo Magico’ status. Here we had a pleasant lunch and a stroll around the central square.
After another amazing meal at our destination (Reserva Ecológica de Nanciyaga) another town granted ‘Pueblo Magico’ status, the smoking of many Casa Turrent cigars, and finally settling into our hotel, we readied ourselves for the busy and informative days ahead.
We began Nov. 5th with a tour of the tobacco nurseries, the tobacco fields, and the curing barns. Here are some notes you might find of interest:
- Tobacco seeds are tinier than you can imagine, about the size of grains of pepper
- They are sifted into small nursery containers filled with peat moss and prepared soil before being placed under cover in long rows
- The plants take 5-6 days to germinate
- After approximately 30 days they are mature enough to plant in the fields
- Tobacco plants are ‘primed’ (a version of pruning) 3 – 5 times per growing cycle
- When the leaves are harvested, they are taking to ‘curing barns’ where bundles are strung up 9 rows high.
- If leaves are extra moist, fires are lit in pits below the leaves to speed up the drying process
The fresh air and heady aroma of tobacco set us up for a languorous evening of eating, smoking cigars, and drinking tequila.
Nov. 6th dawned bright and clear and we were all excited to begin our tour of the renowned Casa Turrent factory. Casa Turrent takes the phrase ‘one stop shop’ to a whole other level as we were to discover. The factory is a place where the following happens:
- Tobacco from the curing barns is transported to the factory and artfully placed in large pilones so the fermentation process can begin
- The temperature of the tobacco is carefully monitored (45-52 degrees dependent on the type of tobacco)
- The pilones are completely inverted (stirred up) every few days so the tobacco is fermented evenly
- The smell of ammonia is powerful in the fermentation room
- After fermentation the tobacco is sorted by colour, size, and thickness
- Leaves that aren’t suitable for wrapper are set aside for binder and/or filler
- After the tobacco is placed in bundles respective to their colour, size, and thickness they are doled out to the rollers.
- Working in pairs, one roller prepares the filler/binder and the other adds the wrapper and cap
- Rollers are expected to roll 150 cigars a day at a minimum. They can earn extra cash by rolling more, though of course they all must meet the exacting standards of the quality control personnel
- Each cigar in a particular line is weighed, draw-tested, and colour-matched
- Likewise, each cigar is put through a ring gauge meter to ensure consistency of size
- Cigars that don’t meet the standard are removed, pulled apart and the tobacco reused and of course the rollers don’t get paid for those cigars
- Once the cigars are rolled, they are stored with like cigars and carefully labelled awaiting export to all over the world
There is a very large cigar box making facility in the factory. Raw lumber is milled/planed and cut into various shapes. The boxes are constructed by craftsmen who take great pride in making their boxes both functional and aesthetically-pleasing.
On our final day at the home of Casa Turrent (Nov. 7th), we spent a little more time at the factory, where we were each gifted with a box of premium cigars (the boxes were even embossed with our names) – a very touching gesture on the part of Alejandro. We then departed for Veracruz and spent a delightful evening eating, drinking, and smoking cigars that for most of us, if not all, have become some of our favourites.
The final parting was a joyous occasion and very touching as evidenced by Richard breaking down in tears and the restaurant manager doing a whoop-whoop!
I would, on behalf of the entire group, like to offer an immense thank-you to Chris (Burlington-on-Whyte), Paul (Brigham Enterprises) and of course to Alejandro Turrent and his amazing staff (Gerardo we will not forget you)!